Time is of prime importance in doing beadwork. Lazy stitch is not difficult, it just takes time and patience to do it right. Take care in spacing rows, and be patient enough to take out mistakes. But, the actual time spent beading is only half the time needed. An equal amount of time should be spent on research. If you are really serious about producing several items for a Sioux dance costume or even one, at least read the references cited in this article, examine photos and actual collections. As mentioned above, there is a "Sioux style" of definite colors and geometric design elements -— get familiar with it. Examine items to determine design placement, size, direction of lanes, etc. Learn what items were beaded in the lazy stitch style.

TECHNIQUE HINTS

Another of Conn's statements is appropriate here, "Real Sioux lazy stitch can usually be recognized by the hard, tight quality of beading. Much, but not all, Sioux lazy stitch has pronounced ridges." The adjacent photos illustrate this description. Use the hints below to achieve this hard, tight quality with ridges. They take practice and time to perfect.

2.Hide: Hard and tight beadwork is a result of a stiff backing. The stiffer parts of an Indian-tanned buckskin hide is ideal. Try to match this when choosing substitutes. Always bead on the side that was next to the meat. Make sure stitches penetrate the center of the hide.

The series of illustrations follow the basic beading technique. Draw a base line lightly with a pencil (not pen). The knot at the end of the thread will eventually be hidden under beadwork. Do not leave knots on the back side of the leather.

Fig. 2 shows proper way to punch leather with awl. Stitches must catch 1/2 the hide or they will pull out. If not using Indian tanned buckskin, proper penetration cannot be achieved without an awl. Awl must be ground down to size of large needle or use a heavy needle glued in a piece of dowel as in Fig. 3.

To start: knot thread, punch through leather, pull thread on needle through holes and string on 8 beads, Fig. 4. As 8 beads lie next to each other on a line perpendicular to base line, punch next pair of holes ½ bead short of distance spanned by 8 beads, Fig. 4.

Next, pull needle and thread through; pull taught and string on 8. Beads should just barely touch first row. Spacing here is critical, you must avoid bunching and gapping, Figs. 6—8. You will learn spacing with practice. Rip out your mistakes as you go; remember, patience. When you come to the end of a thread, tie it off and sew back under the lane. No knots should show on front or back!!

Figure 5 shows placement of second lane. Beads of first lane may touch those of second, but they dont have too. Stitches of second lane should be right next to those of first but not interlocking. In design area rows should line up but need not in background area.

References:

1. Conn, Dick, ‘Western Sioux Beadwork,’ American Indian Hobbyist, Vol. VI No. 9 and 10.
2. Lyford, Carrie a., Quill and Beadwork of the Western Sioux, U.S. Department of the Interior, 1940
3. Hail, Barbara A., Hau, Kola! , Haffenreffer Museum of Anthropology, Brown University, 1980